SeaDoo engine cases, pistons, cylinders, heads, crankshafts, head assembly, counter balance shafts, main bearing kits, ignition coils, wire harness, valve covers, intake valve, male connector adapters, flywheels, and camshafts.Ĭall or text for expert service, we make sure you have everything needed, email the invoice and ship the same day free in the USA. OEM used SeaDoo parts MPEMs, variable trim system, VTS, jet pump housing, crankshafts, water regulators, hoods, props, seats, LCD, gauges, ECU, ECM, VCM, rave valves, exhaust hoses, oil tanks, gas tanks, fuel modules, fuel pumps, pump nozzles. OEM new and used SeaDoo parts for Challenger, Challenger 1800, Spark, Challenger 4TEC Speedster, Speedster SK, Speedster 1800, Speedster 4TEC, Sportster, Sportster LE, Sportster 1800, Sportster 4TEC, Utopia, Bombardier and XP. This arrangement is giving me complete range-of-trim operation with the boat on the trailer.Since 2004, Westside Powersports for fresh water only used SeaDoo parts, MPEMs, jet pumps and more from 1988 to present. Removing the centering cable (the ~15" cable from F-N-R lever to the "sliding blocks" below the VTS lever) would be the best course of action I was running short on daylite, so I just backed off the tension on the centering cable so that it never exerts any tension on the sliding blocks. One tie went vertically thru a forward set of unused holes the second I wrapped horizontally around the blocks and mounting plate. I used a couple of nylon cable ties to bind the sliding blocks together (as they should be when the F-N-R lever is Forward). I'd rather take responsibility for safe operation of the boat, including the trim lever, and HAVE a functional trim system. I'm of the opinion that the auto-centering feature was added as a recommendation by Seadoo's liability attorneys.and that it adds a new dimension of complication and probability of failure. I'll see if the clearance will allow for that, and use some red loctite on it. The bolt that was in there was pretty short, and didn't give much for the nut to grab onto.I got a replacement M6 x 30mm at Lowes last night. I had a replacement SBT engine to break-in, and the trim nozzle worked fine while I was doing the initial trailer-mounted, stern-in-water break-in.Īt some point, the bolt & nut holding the linkage to the VTS lever separated, and naturally the trim stopped varying.I just pulled the control lever assy out yesterday and found the nut missing. I adjusted the short centering cable assy and the VTS linkage to the FSM spec. The pivots are still tight, not flopply loose. When I had the reverse bucket and nozzle assembly off the transom I loosened up the bushings on the trim nozzle just a bit, with some fine sandpaper-they were so stiff initially that I thought the trim linkage might break before the nozzle would rotate. The self-centering operation baffles me too.and the trim lever was essentially non-operative when I bought the boat. Has anybody had any experience adjusting the self centering VTS feature on a 1996 Challenger.I've got a 1996 Challenger (since August 2007-it's my first money-hole ).
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